Stuck in the Mud, Portugal and Nutty Neighbours!

4th October- Portugal!

We have had a great time in Spain but we are excited to be returning to Portugal one of our favourite places.
It is strange returning with a motorhome, usually its the typical 2 weeks in the sun on a package deal but this time we are in our own little home.
A tip we picked up before crossing into Portugal is to fill up with Diesel before you leave Spain as it can be over 10c a litre more than we have been paying, so the last stop we make happens to be a petrol station called Saras! This made my day!

We wanted to try the A22 toll road which runs right across the Algarve but there are no manned tolls or barriers just cameras that log your reg plate. We have heard a lot of people driving on it have been receiving fines when they return home because they don't know where to pay and some just not knowing what to do. There are toll booths at certain points and you have to register your registration plate at one of these easy toll booths and it swipes your credit card which is valid for 30 days. I printed off our ticket but it missed off one of the letters so it will be interesting to see if we are charged!

Easy Toll

Our first stop was just 30km from the border and was a recommendation from a couple we had met on the previous site. It is a GNR site and is used by the police in the summer months, after September anyone can stay for €9.90 a night with a hook up so it was worth a try. The site was pleasant enough no frills with a large pool still open. We had a lot of rain in the night which made the ground soggy. This turned out to be a big mistake! As we moved Bessie off the red muddy sand it clogged up her wheels and she wheel spun everywhere trying to get off the pitch. We wondered why everyone else staying there had huddled up on the next tier above us? These pitches were on gravel!

After struggling with trees and branches and red mud we eventually got out, Bessie looked a mess. Usually the site don't allow you to use your hosepipe to clean motorhomes but Neil was seeing red by then and didn't care and we had to get the mud off her before going onto the roads.

Our next stop was a pure fluke, I was searching for sites on the internet the night before we left  Tavira and came across a new motorhome park right near our favourite part of the Algarve coast  called Olhos D'Agua, (eyes of the water) where we have returned many times for our holidays.

Bessies Pitch

The site is especially for Motorhomes and is right by the beach, the pitches are all flat with gravel and  for €8 a night with electric and free wifi we wished we had found this site sooner!

You do have to use your motorhomes toilet facilities and there are only 3 showers but Bessie has a nice bathroom so it didn't bother us.

A few nights into our stay it feels like coming home, the site is a hidden gem although there are not many English staying on the site, it is mainly German and French. It can feel for me a little lonely when there are no Brits on a site and with my limited language skills we are usually stuck after hello or thank you! I like to chat and socialise a bit and mostly the different countries do stick to their own with the exeption of a few. Some sites can have rows of the same nationalities and can feel like you are intruding if you pick the wrong row.  We met a couple from Scotland,  Greg Eleanor and their woofer Meg who are travelling like us for months. Greg does voluntary work for the golf clubs around Europe when they have large tournaments but they many stay on Aires or wild camp.

We have used the bikes and spent our days here on Falesia beach it has been glorious weather, around 25 degrees in October so can't be bad!

Falesia Beach

10th October 2015.

After 6 wonderful days in Olhos D'Agua, it was time to pack up and head to our 2nd Yelloh Village site in Praia De Luz near Lagos.

The heavens opened on our journey and with a regrettable decision not to take the A22 Toll road we were glad to arrive. The coastal road N125 is full of pot holes and is obviously worn out from all the traffic that doesn't want to pay the toll charges. Neil wasn't a happy bunny! We stocked up on food again and arrived safe and sound at  www.Turiscampo.com

Turiscampo pool

Bessies Pitch

The site is big with a mix of holiday homes and pitches, in the centre is a large pool with a decked sun terrace and bar and restaurant. I booked this site last year as I had heard it was popular in the winter months, and I'm glad I did! I booked a super pitch which is a larger pitch with its own water and waste and electric hook up, as this was going to be our longest stay of 8 weeks, I thought I would save Neil some legwork and its also guaranteed showers in Bessie for me.

We didn't realise until we arrived that there was building work to a new shower block in the area where most of the super pitches are situated. We decided to try a night on the pitch and have a chat to other campers, but after 24 hours we decided 8 wks is a long time to sit next to noisy diggers so we moved to the lower end of the site which is a lot quieter. Our neighbours are mainly English on our row and our neighbours are nuts! Everytime she laughs the whole camp can hear its so funny! They have a Motorhome with a rear end garage (a large storage space with opening doors either side and the bed is raised up inside to accommodate the garage) In their garage they have twin tub washing machine camping size, a hoover, a freezer and boxes full of stuff oh and a Dolce Gusto coffee machine!

Our neighbour offered the use of her twin tub along with a glass of wine! I couldn't refuse! Sue set the timer for 3 mins! I popped the clothes in, cold fed it with a hosepipe then we rinsed it in a bucket of more cold water and put the washing back in to spin! The spinner then wouldn't stop or empty the water! I then hung the half washed clothes on the line last night and it poured with rain! So it was a successful wash and will now pay €4.70 to put it in the sites Miele proffesional washers and do a proper wash! But thank you for the offer!  Our neighbours are a scream Neil has nicknamed them Mork and Mindy! As if that wasn't enough cold water for one day Neil asked if i would fill Bessies water tank but he didn't tell me there was a kink in top of the hose and he turned the tap on soaking me and the awning! Bet he did it on purpose!

My 3 min twin tub wash!

Yesterday Mork and Mindy drove to Monchique, the highest point in on the Algarve and bought a souvenir back for us which was so nice of them, a cork tree bottle stopper!!  They have offered to take us up the mountain too in their Renault Twingo! Neil is not keen!

It is nice after 7 weeks of stopovers to finally set up camp properly and unpack everything from bubble wrap. The awning is up for the first time since Les Embruns, France and the fairy lights are back up so I'm happy.

We can bike into Praia De Luz a 5 min ride away, the beach is wide and sandy with lots of bars and restaurants along the front with mainly apartments and shops in the centre.

Praia De Luz

Neil actually reading!

All the pitches on our row now are Brits we all pop round each others which is nice for a chat and a drink and Mork and Mindy offered to take me to the big Continente supermarket in Lagos so I could stock up on bulky items which we can't put on the bikes. Friday and Saturday evenings there is live music in the bar and a 3 course buffet every day for €9 at lunchtime and €11 in the evenings so if we can't be bothered to cook we go and treat ourselves to a feast.

Brit Row!

The Pyrenees, Northern Spain and Rioja!

25th September -Biarritz

Our last day day in France before we head for Spain, We have enjoyed our travels along the French Coast, but we have had mixed weather, a fair amount of wind and rain but the sun has made up for the bad days.
We decided to have a last walk along the beach but we didn't walk far before Neil started to feel uncomfortable. Everywhere you looked there were naked men laying in all positions! So funny, it turned out to be a short walk! Good job Neil didn't wear his Speedos, I don't think he would have got out of there!

Our best bits of France:
Quality of the sites / large pitches.
Beautiful coastline
Motorhome friendly
Roads easy to drive on.
The cheese, bread and cheap wine!
Good cycle routes.
Large supermarkets with easy parking for Motorhomes.
Cheap Diesel
Moules Mariniere for Me!
Pomme Tits for Neil!

My favourite Site:
Yelloh Village Panorama Du Pyla
Neil's favourite Site:
Pavillon Royale Biarritz

Not so good bits:
Food quite expensive especially eating out.
No toilet seats or toilet paper in public conveniences but you have to wear Speedos in the pools for health and hygiene reasons?



26th September- Spanish Border.

Lots of tunnels on the toll road

Red Wine Country!

We decided to take the Toll road AP-1 and AP-8 Autovias from the French Border through to Spain it was a quick route through the mountains and a direct route to Haro our next stop.  Some of the tolls were manned and some you just popped a card or cash in, usually a few Euros at each toll.  We managed to get through without any problems apart from going past the machine at one stop thinking the booth was manned, we couldn't reverse so I had to get out and walk back to it. The machines have a language option so they are easy to use.  Our route cost €17 in total and the toll road took us virtually to Haro in just over 3 hours.
The site Harocamping.es is in the centre of the wine making region Rioja, so it was a must stop for me! The site is in walking distance of the little town with lots of Wineries on your doorstep,  where you can book wine tastings and tours. Neil had his first beer served in a wine glass at a local tapas bar! I tried the local Vermouth and of course they serve doubles! Both drinks cost €2.50!

A man with a goaty and a wine glass of  Beer!

My souvenirs!

We also had a walk up to the church and we walked straight into a service! We found a seat at the back and quietly watched on not knowing what on earth they were saying. After a few minutes the congregation all turned to the people behind them to shake hands, luckily we had the confession box behind us! We didn't confess any sins!

Tapas bars in Haro

Camping Haro is a site with shady individual pitches mixed with spanish holiday homes but in the centre there is an open grass area where anyone can just park and hook up, we chose this area as there were no trees to manoveure around on the pitches and a lovely sunny area which became popular with the English Motorhomer.

We only stayed 2 nights but we met 3 lovely English couples who all were all keen to give us tips and tell us about their travelling experiences.  Sally and Peter from Wales had also taken early retirement in their 50's and were on their way home after 6 weeks in Southern France and Spain but they are thinking about returning over the winter to Spain. Another couple Mike and Sue also from Wales, Mike a retired skipper of a fishing vessel had lots of stories to tell and they were a mind of info for us all. He also liked his red wine!
Everyone we have met so far has been so friendly and keen to pass on their knowledge, we have learnt even more thanks to them. Most are a little surprised when we tell them we are on a 9th month trip for the first time in a motorhome and usually say Oh Neil you only look 45!! I think it must be the new goaty!

Bessies pitch at Haro Camping

28th September
After Neil stocking up with Desperados and worrying there won't be any in Spain, we moved on to our next stop in Tordesillas, an old Roman town with a Monstary at the top of the hill. www.campingelastral.es is again central to the town and the centre is within walking distance.
I tried the shower facilities out this morning and on entering I was blasted with Opera music, the lady sounded as if she was being strangled! Thus to say it was a quick shower at 8.30 in the morning and it quickly woke me up!
We walked up into to the town late morning and had a wander around the square and the Santa Clara Monastery.

                                            El Astral is the other side of the medieval bridge

The monastery and an old monk!

Apart from a few churches and museums to visit that is it really, so we had a chilled day chatting to other campers, again it took me another hour to do my washing! A wash here is €2.50 which is the cheapest so far,  probably because it is a 90 min cold cycle only!  The site is fairly quiet now as its low season people mainly use this site as a stopover to Portugal so lots come and go. A huge RV came in last night which had to be escorted in by a police car as they got lost finding the site and had a job to get through the town, The English couple live in Portugal but have sold their house and are now living in the RV and plan to travel around Northern Portugal.  Bessie looks tiny against it and I wouldn't fancy moving it too often!

The RV on a 150m pitch Bessie is on 90m Pitch!

Our neighbours,  Peter and Barbs from Hampshire invited us for drinks on our last night at El Astral, they too have a wealth of experience in Motorhoming.  Peter, a retired sound engineer for ITV told us lots of stories about the stars like Kenny Everett Cliff Richard and Benny Hill. There was an endless list of drinks on offer and we wondered where they stored it all!  Neil still took his Desperados!

30th September- Caceres

A 3hr and 30 min drive to our next stop www.campingcaceres.com We have now done 1400 miles in Bessie since leaving the UK, we have filled up with Diesel 3 times with a total of 84 Litres costing a total of €148, not bad! The average price for a litre of Diesel is around €1.08 the cheapest we saw it was €0.97! We had past that one before I saw the sign!

The A66 Routa de la Plata is a motorway stretching most of our route down to Portugal, the live services on the tom-tom can route you to a supermarket of your choice close to your destination, its great as a lot of them are well hidden! Tom Tom has gone wrong once and took us to one that was closed and not the right store. Our favourite large supermarket so far is Carrefour they have a huge choice and prices are good. Neil has found his Desperados at the same price haha!

  

Camping Caceres is situated next to a football stadium on the outskirts of the city. The site was easy to find and just off the A66. The site itself is ok, it is clean and tidy with a huge pool and it is great for a short stopover but lacks atmosphere and it looks quite baron with not a lot of greenery anywhere. Each pitch has its own 'shed bathroom' with your own key which is different!  We decided to just stay overnight.
We have stopped looking at the weather forecast now as most days are the same with clear skies and sun and it is getting warmer the further south we go. The only downside to travelling out of peak season is some of the pools are closed even though the sites are open which can be a disappointment if it is hot but hey we are on our way to the coast again soon!

Bessie view of the neighbours!

I had a shower in our private shower room (en-suite) and the shower was lovely and hot but the water seemed to flood the floor so I had to wade out and if you didn't open the door you could mistake the room for a sauna! You can hear if anyone on the site uses their toilet because the flush is so loud you can hear it outside so everyone knows what you are doing.
1 night was enough at this site we now head for Seville.

31st September - Almonte, Nr Seville,  Andalucia.

This was our longest journey so far of 4 hours. We have covered a lot of ground in a day and we are now between Seville and Huelva in the region of Andalusia.  Our next stop is www.campingaldea.com which is situated within a National Park and walking distance to a very strange town called El Rocio.
This town is like stepping into the wild west, the roads are all sand and horse drawn carriages pull the locals around. We must be a magnet to weddings as the local church had another wedding this time traditional spanish but not the best ground to be clip clopping around in dresses and heels!

El Rocio

Another wedding!

                                                         

The shops in the village were either flamenco dress shops or horse and carriage stores and a few restaurants for the tourists and the pilgrimage that proceeds through the centre once a year.

The campsite is well kept with a lovely pool area, restaurant with a verandah and well stocked little supermarket but good job we stocked up because there are no food stores near here. Pitches are large and sandy with hedging.
Bessie had a neighbour called Bertie and her owners Debbie and Peter. It turns out they too are on their first trip to Europe in a new motorhome and have both taken early retirement after owning a Post Office in Devon for 10yrs so we had lots in common!  I thought it was time Bessie had her first guests so we invited Debbie and Peter for drinks and nibbles, slight mistake with the olives I bought olives with anchovies instead of garlic but the rest of the evening went well, we had a few disapproving glances from neighbours at 1am as we sat chatting away under candlelight and fairy lights but we had a great evening. We are both heading for Portugal tomorrow so hope to meet up again before they go home at the end of November.

Bertie, Debbie and Peter